Sail to Trail
Harald Philipp, three friends, and a dog set out to discover the hidden trails of the Ligurian coast.
Who is Harald Philipp?
Harald Philipp is a professional storyteller and mountain biker, a philosopher and craftsman by passion. He doesn’t fit in any box – especially when your first name doubles as your last.
Born in 1983 in Siegen, Germany, Harald has always considered the mountains his true home. With daring rides from the Alps to the Himalayas, he became one of Germany’s most recognized mountain bikers, famous for first descents, though he jokes he’s only certain about the “last descents.”
Since 2008, Harald has been self-employed as an adventurer, author, and keynote speaker. Through his stories, he inspires people with images, ideas, and movement. Today, he lives in a mountain village at 1,300 meters in the Ligurian Alps, where he continues to explore new paths, both on trails and in living a responsible lifestyle.
Biking the Ligurian Coast
The Ligurian coast is known, especially Finale Ligure, where most riders think all the trails have been explored. But one video changed everything: a freerider took a boat to the eastern Ligurian coast, climbed an ancient stone staircase, and rode it down. The clip ended in a crash and hospital shots. Brutal, but also a wake-up call. For me, it was clear: there’s still adventure out there, and maybe the boat is the key.
An uncharted adventure
A winter in Finale is amazing, with endless laps on perfectly built trails, rollercoaster curves through dirt, rock, and stone. But soon, I felt something missing: adventure. The thought of the wild coast between Genoa and La Spezia wouldn’t leave my mind.
So we launched our own “Boat & Bike” project. Skipper Davide, who knows both boats and trails like the back of his hand, organized a catamaran. On board: trial world champion Tom Öhler, enduro pro Louise Paulin, and Ceppa – the bravest dog on the Ligurian coast. From La Spezia, we set out, not knowing what we would find.
Trails with character
The first stop already proved the coast’s uniqueness. In Sestri Levante, slickrock slabs and steep ramps required precise E-MTB trial skills uphill and downhill. Tight switchbacks that are easy downhill suddenly demand full focus climbing. “Trial on Trail,” as Tom called it.
Further north in Levanto, we discovered smooth sandstone trails winding through pine and olive groves, often surprisingly rideable uphill. The sea glimmered below, and the combination of flow and scenery was unforgettable.
In Lerici, home of enduro world champion Andrea Garibbo, the trails were playful yet slippery, a technical challenge demanding balance and skill.
Not every trail was a winner: the legendary Sentiero No. 1 above Portovenere turned out to be an impassable limestone labyrinth. Stunning views, but impossible to ride. Still, that’s the thrill of exploration, when not every path delivers, but every attempt tells a story.
Life between boat and bike
The sea became our resting space. Mornings smelled of salt and coffee, afternoons of seaweed and chain lube, evenings of diesel and pasta. We froze more often than we liked, but without winter’s cold, the trails would have been unrideable, as in summer, the coast is packed with tourists.
The boat brought us to places we otherwise wouldn’t have reached. Nights in small harbors, hammocks under sails, mornings waking up to new coastal panoramas. Between seasickness and moments of joy, we learned: adventure begins where comfort ends.
By the end, the lesson was clear: even a coastline that seems fully explored still holds secrets. You just need to change your perspective. Sometimes that means swapping your saddle for a boat.
Practical tips for bike & boat in Liguria
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Best Time:
Eastern Liguria is UNESCO World Heritage territory and packed with tourists in summer. Winter (December–February) is the only time to ride freely. Trails are empty, and the cold ensures grippy conditions. -
Getting There:
A boat is spectacular, but not necessary. Regional trains run frequently between coastal towns and feature generous bike compartments – perfect for charging e-bike batteries. -
Difficulty:
The trails are steep, rocky, and technical. Solid riding skills are required, but E-MTBs make even uphill puzzles solvable. Switchbacks and slickrock demand focus and precision.
Trail highlights on the East Coast
- Sestri Levante: Slickrock slabs, steep ramps, tight switchbacks – thrilling for uphill and downhill riders.
- Levanto: Sandstone trails with good grip, often rideable uphill, winding through olive and pine groves with stunning sea views.
- Lerici: Playful but slippery terrain; technical challenges, home trails of enduro pro Andrea Garibbo.
- No-Go’s: Monesteroli staircase (closed after a severe accident) and trails around Portofino (official biking ban).
Words by: Harald Philipp
Photos by: Christoph Bayer
